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Culinary CornerDinna Davis How would you like that mushroom? Medium rare perhaps? Increasingly, an epic mushroom main course is becoming as essential as a steak or fillet of salmon on restaurant menus around the country. At Café Chelsea in Manhattan a meaty, ruffle-edged slab of maitake, also known as hen-of-the-woods, is prepared like steak au poivre with a velvety peppercorn-riddled sauce, listed among the grill items and appointed with a steak knife. Read more here and try some of the recipes (thank you, Paul, for sharing the article!): Mushroom Main Dish Recipes This New York Times article, written by Florence Fabricant, shares how “Mushrooms, Long a Supporting Player, Find the Leading Role” as restaurants around the country make the humble mushroom an essential main dish, home cooks can learn a few tricks for dinner, too. Whether you forage for your own mushrooms or are a regular at Mycopia’s Friday Farm Sale in Sebastopol – you will definitely want to experiment having mushrooms take center stage.  Coarsely cracked black pepper and rich sauce give maitake mushrooms the classic taste of steak au poivre. Credit...Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.
Maitake au Poivre Recipe from Derek Boccagno Adapted by Florence Fabricant Total Time 45 minutes
Prep Time 5 minutes Cook Time 40 minutes Rating (82) Hold the steak. This vegetarian take on steak au poivre, from Manhattan’s Café Chelsea, boasts the same generous application of crushed black pepper, mellowed with cream, stock and a vibrant splash of Cognac, but calls for slabs of maitake mushroom instead of beef. To strut its meaty swagger, the dish is listed on Café Chelsea’s menu among the grilled choices (a grill pan or skillet works just as well) rather than being relegated to the vegetable section. The restaurant opts for large slices of maitake, but the recipe works with several smaller pieces as well. Though quick to assemble, it’s not easy to scale up, so think intimate dinner or Valentine’s Day. —Florence Fabricant INGREDIENTS Yield: 2 servings ¼ ounce dried mushrooms, preferably porcini 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, preferably high fat (European style) 4 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce (see Tip) or regular soy sauce 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon minced shallot 1 tablespoon crushed black peppercorns ¼ cup Cognac or brandy ½ cup heavy cream Salt 2 large slices maitake (hen-of-the-woods) mushroom, each about 6 inches wide and 1 to 1½ inches thick (from 1 to 2 large maitakes) Private Note on this recipe. PREPARATION Step 1 Place dried mushrooms in a small bowl, add ½ cup hot water (tap is fine) and let soak at least 30 minutes. Strain the mushroom stock through a mesh sieve into another small bowl, gently squeezing the mushrooms to release more of the liquid. (Save the softened mushrooms for another use.) Step 2 While the mushrooms soak, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a small saucepan over medium, swirling occasionally. After about 3 minutes, when the foam subsides and the melted butter turns nut-brown with browned bits at the bottom of the pan, add 2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce to the pan, swirl to combine and set aside. Step 3 In a medium skillet, heat oil over medium-low. Add garlic and shallots and cook until softened and barely starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Add peppercorns, cook briefly and then add Cognac. Step back and flame the mixture by carefully lighting the sauce with a long-reach lighter or long fireplace match; it will ignite quickly. When the flames die out (about 30 seconds), add the reserved mushroom stock and the cream, swirling to combine. When the mixture returns to a simmer, cook 3 to 4 minutes to reduce and thicken the sauce. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce and then add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter bit by bit, swirling to combine. Season with salt, if necessary, and set aside. Step 4 Shortly before serving, brush the maitake slices to remove any grit. Then brush them with the brown butter-soy sauce and season lightly with salt. Step 5 Heat a grill, a grill pan or a cast-iron skillet over medium for 1 to 2 minutes. Cook the mushrooms, gently pressing them down with a spatula, until nicely browned and slightly crisped, about 3 minutes per side. Reheat the peppercorn cream sauce on low. Divide the mushroom slices between dinner plates, pour the sauce over and around them and serve immediately. TIP Mushroom soy sauce is typically a bit darker and sweeter than regular soy sauce and tastes more intense, thanks to a flavor boost from mushrooms. It’s available at Asian markets, many supermarkets and online. Keep foraging, keep creating, keep inspiring, keep cooking!
MSSF Culinary Group The MSSF Culinary Group is open to all members interested in the gastronomical aspects of mushrooming. We meet on the forest Monday of each month, with a few exceptions when a holiday falls on the first Monday, to enjoy each other’s company and have a delicious meal. The dinners are open to current members of MSSF and the Culinary Group, and their guests. We are united in our love of cooking as well as our love of mushrooms. Location: Hall of Flowers, Golden Gate Park 9th and Lincoln San Francisco, California All participants contribute, either as part of the team that prepares the dinner, or by bringing an appetizer to share. Traditionally, the dinners have been designed to take advantage of the wild mushrooms available, as well as the best and freshest food of the season. The menus are centered on mushrooms, ethnic foods, a particular main ingredient, or a holiday near the time of the dinner. Each dinner is led by a “captain” who sets the menu and organizes volunteers to cook the dishes, as well as handle setup and cleanup. The Culinary Group is a participatory cooking group. It’s an opportunity to practice your skills and to learn from more experienced cooks. We also help with special events such as the Fungus Fair, and providing snacks for the general meeting. To be part of the fun and food, here are the practicalities:
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| Mycena Newsletter - January 2025 |
