Interest in mushrooms has increased dramatically in the last few years. Food magazines offer
tempting recipes for both wild and cultivated mushrooms. Restaurant menus offer such dishes
as porcini sauce over pasta, or chanterelle quiche. A well-written quarterly magazine dealing
solely with fungi is now available. Its contributors are the most active and knowledgable
mushroom enthusiasts in this country. It is called Mushroom: The Journal of Wild
Mushrooming (see Bibliography).
The potential market is now so great that large-scale cultivation of an increasing variety of
fungi provides year-round pleasure for the mushroom fancier.
The use of mushrooms as food has a long and interesting history. The Romans and the Greeks
explored the culinary possibilities of fungi with enthusiasm. One mushroom was so highly
prized by the Romans that certain cooking pots were set aside and reserved for its exclusive
preparation. It was called a boletaria, and the genus Boletus shares this common name.
Wealthy Romans hired trained collectors to be certain that the mushrooms on which they dined
were edible. Animals and slaves were sometimes fed samples of fungi to test their reactions.
No systematic method for identifying and naming mushrooms was adopted by the Romans.
Nevertheless, we believe some of the varieties we eat today are to be found in banquet menus
and recipes written during Roman times.
Today, in some European countries, trained and certified government inspectors will, for a
nominal fee, separate edible from inedible fungi. Handbooks listing names, addresses, and
phone numbers of such identifiers in each city are available to the public. Pharmacists in
Germany display fresh mushrooms labeled with both common and scientific names.
The search for a simple test to tell if a mushroom is edible continues. The old myths of
cooking with a silver coin or spoon, and the Laotian belief that harmful mushrooms make rice
turn red have not been substantiated. For a few years, mycologists believed they could detect
a poisonous chemical compound found in mushrooms such as in Amanita phalloides, but
subsequent testing of many harmless species produced the same reaction, rendering the test
meaningless.
War, poverty, and cultural customs have forced the people of many countries to survive on wild
foods for certain periods of time. The Russians claim that forest mushrooms spelled the
difference between life and death during their many wars when large numbers of people were
forced to leave their cities. Wild mushrooms are a permanent part of the cuisine of many
countries. People who collect as their forefathers did seldom become ill, because they limit
their collections to a small number of well known fungi.
Wild mushrooms fruit in flushes, reach peak quality for a short time, then vanish until the
following year. Frequently, too many are collected to be consumed fresh, and since they are
perishable, techniques for preserving them were devised. They may be dried, pickled, frozen,
or canned. Powders are made by grinding them after drying. "Ketchups" are concocted and
bottled, and sometimes the mushrooms are salted down, a brining process in which salt is layered with the mushrooms.
In some European countries the number of areas where one can look for wild mushrooms is
limited, but the number of foragers is not. Special days have been set aside for collecting in
parks, and in some areas there are signs in three languages forbidding mushroom collecting.
Research has yet to explain why the numbers of some wild mushrooms have declined in recent
years. Some experts speculate that acid rain may be the cause; others feel that poor land
management is responsible. The overpicking of wild mushrooms may be a factor and this is being
carefully controlled in Europe. Similar concerns have been expressed in the northwestern
United States and Canada that fields and forests may be altered or injured from overpicking.
In the United States, local and distant forays to favorite collecting areas are sponsored by
mushroom societies. Their equipment is simple. Many people bring brown paper bags to carry
edible varieties. Their baskets are as varied and individual as are their hats. Sometimes
their baskets are more interesting than their contents.
Waxed paper is used to wrap uncertain mushrooms to keep them in good condition until they can
be studied at home. A large knife is used to remove the entire mushroom from the ground in
order to closely examine the base. It is also used to trim and remove debris. A hand lens
enables collectors to look for fine details. Some bring a notebook in which to record the
specific location of an area where a certain type of mushroom grows. For the artistic, it is
an opportunity to record nature on paper. A field guide, especially one dealing with
regional species, is essential.
Safety
We expect that those who try these recipes will be rewarded with palates sparkling from their
new taste experiences. However, we must interject a note of warning to all of you adventurers
who follow the culinary trail through these pages of succulent discovery, for we want you not
only to be bold, but to grow old enjoying mushrooms.
Readers should be aware that toxic mushrooms may superficially resemble edible ones. We call
these "look-alikes." Only by examining specimens carefully with regard to physical details
can we distinguish between edible and poisonous wild mushrooms.
It is worth stressing that each single specimen must be carefully identified as well as
checked for general good condition. Don't take chances.
When people consider eating wild mushrooms, they always ask these three questions:
"Are there tests to indicate which mushrooms are edible and which ones are not?" Answer:
Unfortunately, there are no simple tests to determine which ones are safe to eat.
"What's the difference between a mushroom and a toadstool?" Answer: The word
"toadstool" is an indefinite term referring to poisonous mushrooms. It is not commonly used
by experts or knowledgeable amateurs.
"Is it edible?" Answer: Fungi are grouped for edibility as follows:
- Edible and choice.
- Edible and worth collecting.
- Harmless, but not worth collecting.
- Disagreeable.
- Mildly to severely irritating.
- Poisonous to lethal.
The mushrooms in which we are interested are limited to the first two groups. But we have
learned to know the others so that we can delight in eating edible forms with assurance.
We want to emphasize that this book is not a field guide. Our illustrations are aesthetic
rather than scientific representations of specific mushrooms. Do not use the drawings to help
identify mushrooms.
Selecting Mushrooms
Whether kneeling happily under a tree collecting golden mushrooms or standing in a produce
market weighing them on a scale, positive identification of wild mushrooms for eating is
essential. Each individual mushroom must be examined to be certain it is the kind you think it
is.
Commercial wild-mushroom collectors sell mushrooms to retail outlets. At the present time,
anyone may do this, since licenses are not required. Government agencies are in the process
of developing guidelines to protect the consumer. Most retailers rely on the judgment of the
person who collects the mushrooms to identify them properly. Restaurateurs are sometimes
better trained. Ultimately, consumers must take some responsibility in evaluating their
purchases and should shop at produce markets where they trust the produce buyer's judgment.
It is exciting today to see so many wild mushrooms for sale to the general consumer.
Usually, when we decide to sample a mushroom we've never eaten before, we slice and sauté a
small amount of it in butter until it is brown and soft. Then we eat it with plain crackers or
toast to evaluate the intensity and the quality of its flavor. These characteristics help us
decide how it might be used in a recipe. This procedure will also alert us to any allergic
sensitivity we may have to any new foodstuffs. Any new food can cause unpleasant minor
reactions.
Both wild and cultivated mushrooms should be carefully checked for freshness. Brown, shiny,
smelly soft spots will appear if decay has begun. Look for fragmenting gills or pore
surfaces, and for worm holes. The cap should be firm and have a wholesome odor.
Examine dried mushrooms sold in plastic bags with care to be sure they are not broken or
showing other signs of age. They may be stored in clean dry cans or bottles, well sealed to
prevent moisture or insects from entering.
Avoid the use of plastic bags for gathering or storing fresh mushrooms. Waxed or brown paper
bags are preferred. Water condenses on the walls of plastic, making mushrooms moist or soggy.
If they must be carried home from the store in plastic bags, remove them to a dry bowl as soon
as possible. If the specimens are very moist, line and cover the bowl with a cloth or paper
towel before refrigerating. Most mushrooms will last a week if treated this way.
Cleaning Mushrooms
As a rule, clean mushrooms as you use them. Wash them with as little water as possible.
Especially avoid wetting the undersides of the caps. If the mushrooms are in good condition,
brush or wipe them with a damp cloth. Delicate flavors are lost in soaking or boiling
mushrooms.
Remove tough stems or trim the ends as needed. In some recipes, the stems are saved for later
use.
Forest debris and soil can be often persuaded to leave the surface with the gentle brushing of
a finger. Nylon mushroom brushes are available at cookware stores, but a soft toothbrush is
just as effective.
A sharp pointed instrument such as a knife is sometimes required to clean out cracks in
chanterelle caps.
In general, mushrooms should be cleaned at least half an hour before cooking so they can dry
off. Mary Etta Moose, of the Washington Square Bar and Grill in San Francisco, suggests
carefully tossing mushrooms in a dry skillet over heat for a short time to sear their surfaces
and to help remove water.
Cooking Tips
Eating Raw Mushrooms: With a few exceptions, such as the common store mushroom, we do not recommend that mushrooms be eaten raw. Uncooked mushroom tissues are poorly broken down for digestion, depriving us of their nutritional contents. Many varieties of wild mushrooms are
disagreeable when eaten raw because of viscid surfaces or peppery characteristics. However,
they become readily digestible and delectable when cooked.
Using Butter and Cream: Butter seems to enhance the flavor of most mushrooms, except for some of the Asian varieties such as matsutakes and the ear mushrooms. We recommend unsalted butter in cooking. Lemon
juice helps mushrooms maintain their color and adds zest to their flavor.
It is a common observation that mushrooms in some recipes seem to taste much better when cream
is added. It is a culinary reality that cannot be avoided despite the current trend away from
cream sauces. Milk may substituted for cream if diet is of greater importance than taste.
Adding Salt: It is recommended that salt be added to most of the recipes in this book to satisfy individual taste preferences. We are aware that many mushroom fanciers must limit salt for health
reasons. Salt should be added towards the end of cooking, since it tends to remove water from
mushroom tissues and makes them too soft.
Slicing Mushrooms: Slicing mushrooms allows for more rapid cooking and water loss than when mushrooms are cooked whole. Cut them into uniform thicknesses and they will cook more evenly. Mushrooms with mild
and subtle flavors should be cut into large pieces so that their savory juices can be better
appreciated. The best tool for cutting mushrooms is a sharp 5-1/4 inch utility knife.
For uniform slicing, because the caps have varying sizes, shapes, and textures, cut mushrooms
in half so that they will lie flat on the surface of the cutting board. Soft species such as
shaggy manes are difficult to cut unless the knife is sharp and the cut firm.
Precooking Mushrooms: Wild mushrooms are often precooked for several different reasons. If freezer storage is planned, it is best to sauté them in butter first, so they will have firmer texture when used
later. Making duxelles is another way of preparing a mushroom in advance and utilizing
otherwise discarded portions of mushrooms. To prepare marinated mushrooms, either parboil them
or simmer them in the marinade liquid. Vinegar and other acidic combinations do not have the
same chemical action as does heat and will not eliminate toxins. Certain helvella mushrooms
should be parboiled to remove toxins and the water discarded before adding the mushrooms to
other ingredients.
Using Dried Mushrooms: In using dried mushrooms, first rinse them quickly under the faucet and then place them in a bowl. Pour enough hot water over them to cover and soak for the recommended period of time
for each type of mushroom. Soaking time will vary because of the different size, thickness,
and shape of each variety. As a rule, this should take at least 15 to 20 minutes. Remove
the mushrooms and squeeze them dry. Save the soaking liquid for use in your recipe since much
mushroom flavor will have been released while rehydrating. Decant the soaking liquid slowly
to avoid adding sediment that has settled to the bottom of the vessel.
Intensifying Flavor: Mushrooms exude liquid when sautéed in oil or butter. Many chefs prefer to cook most of the fluid off to develop the maximum intensity of the mushroom's flavor. Some recipes require
browning the mushrooms to create more flavor. While doing this, constant vigilance is
required to avoid burning.
Preserving Mushrooms
There are four excellent reasons for preserving mushrooms:
They are very seasonal. Wild mushrooms are sold in the markets cyclically at the same time as they appear in their natural habitats. We must enjoy them fresh while we can. As a rule, they are most tasty when fresh. But many varieties, if carefully preserved, can be coaxed to hold on to their
flavors for later use.
Mushroom prices are at their lowest when they are being harvested
in quantity. This lasts for a few weeks or months, depending on the species. If you are
lucky enough to find or to inexpensively buy a large quantity at one time, it may be
impossible to cook and eat all of them. There are two options to be explored: either give
the excess away to friends, or preserve them for later use.
Fungi do not keep well for long. After eating and enjoying some for a few days, holding the rest increases the risk of spoiling. To make the most of the leftover mushrooms, it is wise to safely put the remainder away until your taste buds again urge you to repeat past pleasures.
Transporting fresh fungi is difficult. They break and bruise easily. They do not tolerate exposure well. Therefore they can be merchandised satisfactorily by drying, canning, freezing, grinding, pickling, or as ketchup.
Drying Mushrooms
One of the earliest methods of preserving food was to dry it. This is still an effective
way to keep mushrooms for a long time without spoiling. Their taste will usually be altered in
the process. Sometimes the flavor becomes more intense, and sometimes their original
qualities are lost. Some varieties of mushrooms take on nuances not found when fresh.
Begin by selecting mushrooms that are in good condition. They should be firm, without many
worm holes, and capable of withstanding gentle handling.
When cleaning, try to prevent the mushroom from taking on water, which is what we want to
get rid of. The underside of the cap is particularly prone to holding onto liquid. Clean the
top of the cap with a brush, a damp cloth, or your finger. Trim the stems.
Cut flat, even, broad slices about 3/8 inch thick. The slices should be of uniform width so
that they will dry at the same speed. Plan to work on your mushrooms as soon as you bring
them home. Do not leave them lying around to deteriorate. Avoid overlapping the slices on
trays so that they will dry evenly.
Many mushroom fanciers have developed unique drying techniques. Some hang flats of wire screen
doors, plastic mesh, etc., overhead with wire or cord, especially above ovens, fireplaces, or
heating units. One creative person has converted an abandoned refrigerator into an efficient
dryer using a fan and a 75-watt light bulb. Many effective and inexpensive commercial
dehydrators are available.
When slices are bone dry, no less, place in metal cans or glass jars. If you are uncertain
about their state of dryness, transfer them into paper bags, and hang in a dry, warm place
over an oven or fireplace for a few days. Then put them into containers, adding a few dried
bay leaves or a handful of whole black peppers to discourage insect pests. Be sure to label
containers with the date and the species identification.
Freezing Mushrooms
Freezing is a fine technique for putting mushrooms away for a future day when none are
growing. They can be frozen fresh or precooked. Some small caps may be frozen whole, after
examining, cleaning, and completely draining them. Allow 20 to 30 minutes for draining.
Larger specimens should be sliced or cubed into 1/4-inch pieces. Heavy plastic is acceptable
for freezing, or use freezing containers. Matsutakes and the boletes are preserved
beautifully this way, retaining their aromas and spiciness as well as their textures.
There are two methods of precooking mushrooms for freezing. One way is simply to freeze a
dish made with mushrooms, such as a quiche, ready to heat and serve. The other is to sauté
the mushrooms in butter or oil, or both, for 5 minutes before transferring them to a freezer
container. Be sure to include the liquid remaining in your saucepan. Such food will keep
well for 6 months.
Stuffed Mushrooms
It's easy to develop a mutual admiration relationship with
mushrooms. You stuff them, then let them stuff you. Common store
mushrooms are perfect receptacles for a variety of foodstuffs such
as onions, tomatoes, greens, meat, or chopped mushroom stems enhanced
with butter, herbs, or spices.
The simplest mode of preparation is to remove the stem from the
cap or use hollow-capped species such as morels. Stuff them, and
bake. They don't last long as party food, and they will contribute
complements and compliments for your main course at dinner.
Use medium- to large-sized caps: medium for hors d'oeuvres and
appetizers, large ones for main dishes. Select very firm mushrooms
with broad stems and unopened caps that will hold more stuffing.
Clean the tops and stems with a soft brush and a little water.
Drain for 15 to 30 minutes in a colander. Remove any debris from the
stems, and freshen up the cut end of the stem by trimming.
Gently twist off the stems of gilled mushrooms. You may need
to use the end of a knife to encourage the stem to leave. Remove the
cottony veil from common store mushrooms and their relatives. Don't fail to
incorporate these fragments and the stems in the stuffing.
Prepare the caps by brushing them with soft or melted butter.
This will sear the surface of the mushroom when heated and will help
it hold its shape. Another way of firming them up is to brush
them with butter and broil them cavity-side down under a preheated broiler
for 5 minutes before being filled.
Stuffing material should be partially or completely precooked and
ready for placement as soon as the caps have been prepared. Spoon
the stuffing
into the hollowed portion of the caps, press the material down
tightly, and move the caps onto your baking surface. Mushrooms
release a good deal of liquid when heated, so it is best to use a
shallow baking pan or a jelly roll pan, which has raised edges, to
retain the juices. It is advisable to fill them before placing them
on the baking pan, since you want your mushrooms to have a neat
appearance. And the pan will be much easier to clean.
Baking or broiling time will vary according to the size of the
cap and the nature of the filling. It is best to start with a
preheated oven. Keep your eye on your achievements, allowing them to
brown without burning. Serve them immediately.
Mushroom varieties other than the common store ones may be
stuffed, such as:
Boletus edulis (cèpes or porcini): Large caps may be prepared
as small pizzas. Serve stuffed boletes alongside your meat or fish
dish; they may be filled with a wide variety of foods appropriate to
the entree. The superb
full flavor of this mushroom's juice blends with any stuffing to make
it unique and rich.
Agaricus augustus (the prince): One of the best mushrooms for
stuffing because it is usually large and the cap forms a deep bowl.
The strong, sweet almond flavor exuding from the prince adds an
exotic quality to whatever ingredients you select to stuff it with,
such as sautéed chopped stems cooked with minced garlic, bread
crumbs, fresh tomatoes, and soy sauce. The special princely flavor
filters through all the ingredients.
Morels: These were designed by nature for stuffing. Fill their
hollow interiors with mixtures of ground beef, bacon, lamb, crab, or
simply browned onions, bread crumbs, and parsley. Any stuffing
will feature the morel's fabulous aftertaste.
Shiitakes: This is the finest of the cultivated mushrooms. Asian
recipes frequently recommend steaming them when they are filled.
Dry shiitakes should be reconstituted for 20 minutes in hot water
before using.
Matsutakes: Expensive to buy and rare to find, a large stuffed
matsutake could be the vegetable for a large dinner party. You might
want to marinate it with soy sauce and dry sherry for 20 minutes.
Remove the stem and use it chopped with pork or chicken, moistened
with the marinade. Brush the cap with peanut oil. Fill and grill
or bake in a hot oven until brown. Small matsutakes can be stuffed
by making a cut in the cap and spreading the opening enough to place
stuffing inside. They are very attractive served with steamed
vegetables.
You will find suggestions for other stuffing mixtures in the
sections on specific mushrooms.
